Quince Tarte Tatin

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Quince Tarte Tatin

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Makes 6 to 8 servings

Quince was another harbinger of autumn in California, and my grandmother, like many other cooks, only used to make amber-colored jelly. I learned to turn it into an upside-down tart with a deep rose color. Tarte Tatin is one of the most impressive (and to my mind, one of the easiest, once you get used to flipping the hot tart onto a platter) of all desserts. This isnŐt very sweet, so feel free to serve ice cream or whipped cream on the side. For the crispest crust, use European-style butter with high butterfat content.

Perfect Butter Pastry Dough
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, preferably European style, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 tablespoons ice water, as needed
5 quinces
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably European style, thinly sliced, divided
3/4 cup sugar, divided
  1. To make the pastry dough, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade to combine. Add the butter and pulse about 8 times until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in enough cold water to moisten the mixture, just until it begins to clump together (the dough will hold together when pressed between your thumb and forefinger.) Gather up into a thick disk and wrap in waxed paper. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.
  2. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick. Using the skillet lid as a template, cut out a round slightly smaller in circumference than the inside of the skillet. Transfer the dough round to a baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to use.
  3. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Have a 9-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet with a domed lid ready.
  4. To make the tart, using a vegetable peeler, peel the quince. Using a paring knife, cut 3 quince (they are harder than apples, so donŐt be surprised) lengthwise into quarters, and cut away the hard cores. Cut the remaining 2 quince lengthwise into eighths, and cut away the hard cores. Transfer to a bowl and toss with the lemon juice.
  5. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the skillet over medium heat. Stir in 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Arrange the quince quarters, curved side down, in a circle in the pan, filling in the empty center with 2 quince quarters. Arrange the quince eighths on top, filling in caps between the quarters. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Cover with the lid. (If your lid doesnŐt clear the quince, create a makeshift lid with aluminum foil.) Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, basting occasionally with the pan juices (use a bulb baster) until the quince is just tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 12 minutes. Place the pastry round in the skillet.
  6. Bake until the pastry is deep golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven. Holding the skillet by the handle, give the skillet a gentle shake to be sure that the quince isnŐt sticking. Place a flat platter over the skillet. Holding the platter and skillet together, invert them to unmold the tart onto the platter. (Do this quickly and be careful of any hot juices that might escape from the skillet.) Cool for at least 15 minutes. Serve warm or cool to room temperature.


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